Arthur's Town
Where Sidney Poitier learned to dream beneath coconut palms and endless sky
Arthur's Town sprawls along the northern reaches of Cat Island, a sun-washed settlement of pastel-painted homes and weathered fishing boats pulled up on quiet shores. This is where Sidney Poitier spent his formative years, where he first gazed at the stars and imagined worlds beyond the coconut groves that still rustle in the trade winds.
The settlement remains refreshingly uncommercial, its single main road connecting a handful of local shops, Pat Rolle's legendary Cookie House Bakery, and residents who carry forward generations of Bahamian tradition. Arthur's Town serves as the unofficial capital of rake-and-scrape music, that irresistible rhythm built from goatskin drums, carpenter's saws, and accordions that sets every June festival ablaze with dancing.
A Living Legacy of Bahamian Culture
Arthur's Town earned its place in history when Sidney Poitier, the first Black actor to win an Academy Award for Best Actor, wrote lovingly about his childhood here in his autobiography. The tomato farm where his parents worked the soil is gone, but the same salt-tinged breezes and crystal waters that shaped his imagination remain unchanged.
Every June, the settlement transforms into the epicenter of Bahamian folk music during the Rake and Scrape Festival. Musicians gather from across the islands to play instruments fashioned from everyday objects, keeping alive a tradition that arrived with Turks and Caicos immigrants in the early twentieth century. The infectious rhythms spill from makeshift stages into the streets, where visitors dance alongside locals until the small hours.
Simple Pleasures and Genuine Hospitality
Life in Arthur's Town moves at a pace dictated by the tides and the sun. Pat Rolle's Cookie House Bakery has fed travelers and locals alike for decades, serving home-cooked Bahamian dishes alongside fresh-baked bread and island stories. Pat herself is a repository of Cat Island lore, happy to share tales of bush medicine traditions and the old ways that persist here.
The beaches near Arthur's Town offer the solitude that drew settlers here in the first place. Stretches of powder-white sand curve around sheltered coves where the only footprints are your own. The water runs through impossible shades of turquoise, warm and calm enough for hours of idle floating.
Gateway to Northern Cat Island
Arthur's Town Airport provides the northern entry point to Cat Island, though most commercial flights arrive at New Bight to the south. From here, the Queen's Highway runs the length of the island, passing through settlements like Bennett's Harbour and Orange Creek, each more peaceful than the last.
Beneath the island's surface, Peter's Cave and other limestone caverns wind through the rock, home to colonies of bats and mysterious formations that have drawn explorers for generations. Local guides know the unmarked paths to these hidden places, offering adventures that few visitors ever discover.
Getting there
Arthur's Town Airport (ATC) receives limited scheduled service, with most visitors flying into New Bight Airport (TBI) and driving north via the Queen's Highway. Western Air and Southern Air Charter operate flights from Nassau to Cat Island. The mailboat from Potter's Cay Dock in Nassau takes approximately 10-12 hours and runs weekly, offering an authentic but rustic island-hopping experience. Once on Cat Island, taxis and rental vehicles are available, though arrangements should be made in advance.
Frequently asked questions
- Is there a museum or memorial dedicated to Sidney Poitier in Arthur's Town?
- There is no formal museum, but the settlement itself serves as a living memorial to Poitier's legacy. Locals are proud of their famous son and happy to share stories about his family and childhood. The community celebrates his memory, and visitors can walk the same roads where the young Poitier once played.
- When is the best time to visit Arthur's Town?
- The Rake and Scrape Festival in early June offers the most vibrant cultural experience, with live music and community celebrations. For quiet beach time and exploration, November through May provides ideal weather with lower humidity and calm seas. Summer months are warmer and may see occasional rain showers.
- Are there hotels or accommodations in Arthur's Town?
- Accommodation options in Arthur's Town itself are very limited. Pigeon Cay Beach Club lies a few miles south and offers beachfront cottages. Most visitors base themselves at resorts near New Bight, such as Fernandez Bay Village, and drive north for day trips. Advance booking is essential as options are few.