Cockburn Town
Capital of Columbus's first landing, where history meets world-class diving
Cockburn Town spreads along the western shore of San Salvador, a compact capital whose colorful buildings overlook the same waters that Christopher Columbus sailed in 1492. Named for a 19th-century colonial governor, this quiet settlement serves as the administrative heart of an island famous for its place in world history and its extraordinary diving.
From here, visitors embark on journeys to Long Bay, where a simple white cross marks the probable spot where Columbus first stepped onto the New World. The surrounding seas offer visibility that regularly exceeds 150 feet, dropping off into walls that have made San Salvador legendary among serious divers.
Where Columbus Made Landfall
On October 12, 1492, Christopher Columbus and his crew aboard the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria sighted land after weeks crossing the Atlantic. The Lucayan people who lived here called their island Guanahani; Columbus promptly renamed it San Salvador, Holy Savior. Debate continues about the exact landing spot, but San Salvador holds the strongest claim.
The Columbus Monument at Long Bay consists of a simple white cross erected in 1956, the most photographed site on the island. A second monument rests on the seafloor where Columbus is believed to have anchored. Four different monuments across the island stake various claims to the historic moment, but Long Bay remains the consensus favorite among historians.
World-Class Diving Waters
San Salvador's reputation among divers rests on its dramatic underwater topography and exceptional visibility. More than 35 moored dive sites ring the island, many protected within the Bahamian national park system. Walls plunge from shallow reefs into abyssal depths, decorated with elkhorn and staghorn corals and patrolled by sharks that arrive seasonally.
During winter and spring, divers encounter hammerhead sharks, Caribbean reef sharks, and occasional oceanic whitetips along the deeper walls. The calm western coast near Cockburn Town offers protected conditions ideal for newer divers, while the wilder eastern shore challenges experienced explorers. Seafari Bahamas operates daily diving excursions from the island.
Island Life and Inland Lakes
Cockburn Town itself moves at a gentle pace, its few hundred residents engaged in fishing, small-scale farming, and the hospitality industry that serves visiting divers and historians. The settlement has basic services, a few small restaurants, and the modest government buildings appropriate to an island of 824 people.
Unique among Bahamian islands, San Salvador features interconnecting inland lakes that run much of its length. The Lucayan people once used these waterways for transportation, and modern kayakers can explore the same routes, paddling through mangroves and past flamingo nesting grounds. The lakes teem with birdlife, offering a counterpoint to the marine adventures offshore.
Getting there
San Salvador Airport (ZSA) receives flights from Nassau via Bahamasair, operating most days of the week with a flight time of approximately one hour. Bahamasair also flies direct from Miami on Saturdays. The island has no ferry service, making air travel the only practical option. Taxis and rental vehicles are available on the island, though advance booking is advisable. Most dive resorts offer airport transfers for their guests.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I visit the Columbus Monument at Long Bay independently?
- Yes, Long Bay is accessible by road from Cockburn Town, about a 20-minute drive. The white cross monument stands on the beach and is freely accessible. There are no facilities at the site, so bring water and sun protection. The beach itself offers good swimming in calm conditions.
- What is the best time of year for diving at San Salvador?
- Diving is excellent year-round, but shark encounters peak between December and March when hammerheads and other species congregate in the area. Summer months offer the calmest conditions and warmest water temperatures. Visibility remains outstanding throughout the year, rarely dropping below 100 feet.
- Are there restaurants and accommodations in Cockburn Town?
- Cockburn Town has limited dining options and basic supplies. Most visitors stay at dive resorts on the island, which provide meals and comprehensive packages. The island's remote nature means planning ahead is essential; do not expect the amenities of more developed Bahamian islands.