Pastel gingerbread houses lining the waterfront of Tarpum Bay, Eleuthera, with calm harbor waters and small fishing boats
South Eleuthera, The Bahamas

Tarpum Bay

An artists' haven where pastel cottages, castle towers, and creative spirits define the Bahamian waterfront.

Tarpum Bay is a tiny settlement draped in charm, where pastel-washed gingerbread-trimmed houses cascade down hillsides to a pristine waterfront. This pocket of South Eleuthera has long attracted artists who have established a small colony complete with galleries and studios, drawn by the extraordinary light and unhurried pace of island life.

The settlement's most distinctive landmark is Castle MacMillan-Hughes, a whimsical tower house built by the eccentric Irish-American artist Lord Gordon MacMillan-Hughes. With its original stained glass windows, decorative doors, and spiral staircase leading to the artist's favorite room inset with corals and shells, the castle embodies the creative spirit that defines Tarpum Bay.

The Artists' Village

Tarpum Bay has earned its reputation as Eleuthera's most artistic community. The settlement's exceptional natural light, peaceful atmosphere, and picturesque architecture have drawn painters, sculptors, and craftspeople for decades. Small galleries and studios dot the narrow streets, showcasing work inspired by the surrounding seascapes and island life.

The village itself serves as an open-air gallery. Pastel-painted cottages in shades of coral, turquoise, and lavender feature intricate gingerbread trim passed down through generations of Bahamian craftsmen. These architectural gems, some over a century old, create a streetscape that artists have captured on canvas countless times.

Castle MacMillan-Hughes

Rising above the village is the fantastical Castle MacMillan-Hughes, once featured in Fodors Travel Guide as a must-see Eleuthera landmark. Built by Lord Gordon MacMillan-Hughes, an Irish-American artist who called himself the Lord of the Scales Demesne Artist Extraordinaire, the self-constructed tower house reflects decades of artistic vision.

MacMillan-Hughes, known for his bushy white beard, Oxford accent, and fine whistle, maintained residences in both Stratford-upon-Avon and Tarpum Bay. His Eleuthera castle still contains original stained glass windows, decorative doors, and natural walls embedded with corals and shells. The castle has since hosted artists-in-residence programs, continuing the creative legacy its builder established.

Waterfront Life

The charming waterfront stretches along Tarpum Bay's protected harbor, where local fishing boats bob alongside the town dock. This area has long been prized for fishing, with calm waters perfect for small craft and excellent catches just offshore.

Simple guesthouses along the waterfront offer affordable accommodations for visitors seeking an authentic Out Island experience. The settlement's slow pace encourages leisurely exploration of the narrow lanes, conversations with friendly locals, and long afternoons watching the play of light across the harbor waters.

Getting there

Tarpum Bay is located approximately 9 miles north of Rock Sound along the Queen's Highway. From Rock Sound International Airport, the drive takes roughly 15 minutes. Governor's Harbour Airport to the north is approximately 17 miles away. The settlement has a small dock accessible to shallow-draft boats, though most boaters anchor offshore. Rental cars are available at both airports, and local taxi services can arrange transport to Tarpum Bay.

Frequently asked questions

Can visitors tour Castle MacMillan-Hughes?
Castle MacMillan-Hughes is a private residence and vacation rental property. While the exterior can be viewed and photographed from public areas, interior access requires booking a stay at the property or participating in occasional artist-in-residence programs.
What art galleries are in Tarpum Bay?
Tarpum Bay has a small but active arts community with several galleries and studios operated by resident artists. Offerings vary seasonally, so visitors should explore the village streets to discover current exhibitions and working studios.
Is Tarpum Bay a good base for exploring South Eleuthera?
Yes, Tarpum Bay offers affordable guesthouses and a central South Eleuthera location. Ocean Hole and Rock Sound are a short drive south, while Governor's Harbour is accessible to the north. The peaceful atmosphere makes it an excellent retreat after days of exploration.