Things to Do in George Town, Great Exuma
Reviewed by Captain Ronald RolleGeorge Town, the capital of Great Exuma, anchors the southern end of one of the Bahamas' most spectacular island chains. The 365 Exuma Cays stretch northward in a shimmering parade of uninhabited islands, sandbars, and protected marine parks, all accessible by boat from this charming harbor town.
Elizabeth Harbour, the broad natural anchorage sheltering George Town, has long been a gathering place for cruising sailors who arrive each winter and stay for months. But the town's appeal extends far beyond the yachting community. World-famous experiences like swimming with pigs, snorkeling through Thunderball Grotto, and wading with nurse sharks draw visitors from around the globe. Despite this, George Town maintains its authentic Out Island character, with conch salad stands, friendly locals, and a pace of life governed by tides rather than schedules.
Stocking Island
BeachA short ferry ride from George Town, this barrier island protects Elizabeth Harbour and offers some of Exuma's finest beaches. The western shore faces the calm harbor while the eastern side meets the open Atlantic with a beautiful pink-tinged beach. Walking trails cross the island's interior, and the waters teem with sea life.
Tip: Take the ferry from Government Dock or catch a ride from Club Peace and Plenty.
Chat 'N' Chill Beach Bar
DiningThis legendary beach bar on Stocking Island has been drawing visitors since the 1990s with its laid-back vibe, fresh conch salad, and Sunday pig roast. Volleyball courts, hammocks, and clear swimming waters complete the scene. The bar sits on a pristine white-sand beach with stingrays often swimming near shore.
Tip: The Sunday Pig Roast has been running since 2001 and is the social event of the week.
Swimming with Pigs at Big Major Cay
WildlifeThe famous swimming pigs of Exuma live on Big Major Cay, about 50 nautical miles north of George Town. These friendly feral pigs swim out to greet approaching boats hoping for snacks. Multiple tour operators run full-day excursions that combine the pigs with other Exuma Cays highlights.
Tip: Book an early morning tour to reach the pigs before crowds arrive.
Thunderball Grotto
SnorkelingThis underwater cave west of Staniel Cay gained fame as a filming location for James Bond's Thunderball and Never Say Never Again. Sunlight streaming through openings in the ceiling illuminates a kaleidoscope of tropical fish inside the grotto. Snorkelers access the cave through a small underwater entrance.
Tip: Visit at low tide when the entrance is easier to access and you can stand inside the grotto.
Three Sisters Beach
BeachNamed for three prominent rock formations jutting from the water, this beach on Great Exuma's northern coast offers excellent snorkeling and stunning scenery. The shallow reef close to shore teems with colorful fish and sea fans. The beach sees fewer visitors than Stocking Island.
Tip: Bring reef-safe sunscreen and your own snorkeling gear.
Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park
NatureEstablished in 1958, this was the first land-and-sea park in the world and remains one of the most pristine marine environments in the Caribbean. The 176-square-mile park prohibits fishing and extraction, resulting in abundant marine life and crystal-clear waters. Snorkeling and diving here reveals what healthy reefs looked like before overfishing.
Tip: The park is accessible by boat charter from George Town and requires a full day to explore properly.
Tropic of Cancer Beach
BeachLocated on Little Exuma, this gorgeous crescent of white sand marks the exact line of the Tropic of Cancer. A marker at the beach notes the geographic significance. The shallow, calm waters and remote location make it one of the most peaceful beaches in the Exumas.
Tip: Drive south from George Town and cross the bridge to Little Exuma for this secluded beach.
Monument Hill
LandmarkThis elevated point in George Town offers panoramic views of Elizabeth Harbour, Stocking Island, and the surrounding cays. A walking trail from the East Coast Beach leads to the summit. It is a popular spot for watching sunrise over the Exuma Sound.
Tip: Combine the hike with a walk along East Coast Beach for a full morning outing.
Best time to visit
December through May offers the best weather with temperatures in the mid-70s to mid-80s Fahrenheit. The George Town Cruising Regatta in early March draws hundreds of boats and creates a festive atmosphere. Hurricane season runs June through November, with September and October carrying the highest storm risk.
Getting there
Exuma International Airport receives direct flights from Miami, Fort Lauderdale, and Nassau. Bahamas Ferries operates service from Nassau to George Town several days per week. For those arriving by yacht or charter catamaran, Elizabeth Harbour offers one of the best anchorages in the Bahamas with excellent holding and protection from most wind directions.
Getting Around Great Exuma
Great Exuma stretches thirty-seven miles from end to end, connected by a small one-lane bridge to Little Exuma at its southern tip. Rental cars provide the most practical way to explore the island, with daily rates starting around sixty dollars plus a two-hundred-dollar deposit. Several operators including Berlies Car Rental, Don's Rent A Car, and Thompson's Rental serve the George Town area. Fuel stations are limited, with one near Exuma International Airport and another in Farmer's Hill, both typically open Monday through Saturday.
George Town itself rewards exploration on foot. The compact waterfront village centers on the government dock, straw market, and handful of shops and restaurants that constitute downtown. Lake Victoria sits inland from the harbor, marking the town's core. Walking remains the best way to browse the market, sample conch salad at the dock, and soak in the unhurried pace that defines Out Island life.
Scooters and bicycles offer alternatives for visitors staying near George Town who prefer two wheels to four. Scooter rentals run approximately fifty dollars per day with a hundred-dollar deposit. Golf carts, while popular on some Bahamian islands, are less practical here given the distances between attractions and the main road's traffic.
Where to Eat
The Fish Fry cluster of colorful wooden shacks just north of George Town delivers the most authentic local dining experience. Shirley's stands as the most popular restaurant in the row, serving cracked conch, grilled fish, and peas and rice seven days a week in a laid-back waterfront setting. The view across Elizabeth Harbour alone justifies the visit.
Big D's Conch Spot in Steventon near Coco Plum Beach has earned a reputation for the freshest conch salad on the island. The beachside location adds to the appeal, combining excellent food with stunning scenery. Arrive early as the best catches go quickly.
Santanna's Bar and Grill on Little Exuma gained fame as a favorite hangout for the Pirates of the Caribbean cast and crew during filming. The colorful shack perched above turquoise water serves lobster cooked over an open flame, with owner Dee's warm hospitality drawing repeat visitors. Mom's Bakery next door produces fresh bread and rum cakes that complement any meal. The drive to Little Exuma takes about twenty minutes from George Town but rewards with one of the most memorable dining experiences in the Exumas.
Day Trips and Nearby Attractions
Little Exuma deserves a half-day excursion from George Town. Cross the one-lane bridge and drive south to discover Tropic of Cancer Beach, where a marker notes the exact geographic line. The white sand crescent remains remarkably undeveloped, offering the kind of solitude increasingly rare in the Caribbean. Continue to the Hermitage, ruins of a Loyalist plantation built by the Kendall family in 1784, where old tombs dating to the mid-1700s still stand among the grounds.
Rolle Town lies on the road to Little Exuma, a sleepy settlement populated by descendants of slaves once owned by Lord Denys Rolle. Century-old houses line the streets of this hamlet where time moves slowly. The Rolle Town Tombs in an abandoned field mark the burial ground of the McKay family, Scottish settlers who arrived in 1789.
Full-day boat tours from George Town reach the famous attractions of the northern Exuma Cays. A typical itinerary includes swimming with pigs at Big Major Cay, snorkeling Thunderball Grotto, swimming with nurse sharks at Compass Cay, and lunch at Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Tours typically accommodate twelve passengers or fewer and include beverages, with costs ranging from two hundred to three hundred dollars per person.
History and Culture
George Town's founding traces to 1793 when Lord Denys Rolle established the settlement, naming it in honor of King George III. Rolle had received a crown grant of seven thousand acres and brought enslaved Africans to work five cotton plantations: Rolle Town, Rolleville, Mount Thompson, Steventon, and Ramsey. The cotton economy failed within decades, but the human legacy endures.
Pompey, an enslaved worker on Rolle's plantations, organized a remarkable resistance in 1829. When Lord John Rolle, who never set foot on his Exuma holdings, ordered forty-four enslaved people transferred to Cat Island, they hid in the woods, refused to work, stole a vessel, and sailed to Nassau to petition the English governor directly. This act of defiance preceded emancipation by five years.
When emancipation came in 1834, Lord John Rolle took an unusual step: he deeded all his lands to the formerly enslaved people who had worked them. They adopted his surname, and their descendants bearing the Rolle name remain throughout the Exumas today. This history infuses the island with meaning that reveals itself to visitors who look beyond the beaches.
Read the full George Town, Great Exuma guide
Frequently asked questions
- How do I get to the swimming pigs from George Town?
- Big Major Cay is about 50 nautical miles north of George Town. Full-day boat tours departing from George Town visit the pigs along with Thunderball Grotto and other cays, typically costing $200-300 per person.
- Is there a ferry to Stocking Island?
- Yes, ferries run from the Government Dock in George Town and from Club Peace and Plenty resort. The crossing takes about 10 minutes, with round-trip fares around $15.
- Can I rent a boat in George Town?
- Several operators rent small boats by the day for self-guided exploration of Elizabeth Harbour and nearby cays. A captain's license is not required for certain vessel sizes.
- What is the best way to see Thunderball Grotto?
- Book a full-day Exuma Cays tour from George Town that includes Thunderball Grotto, the swimming pigs, and other highlights. This is more efficient than trying to reach Staniel Cay independently.
- What is the George Town Cruising Regatta?
- The George Town Cruising Regatta is an annual two-week gathering held each March that has drawn cruisers from around the world for over forty-four years. Events include boat races, games, music, and island festivities, making it the social highlight of the sailing season in Elizabeth Harbour.
- How long does it take to drive from George Town to Little Exuma?
- The drive from George Town to Little Exuma takes approximately twenty minutes. Cross the one-lane bridge connecting the two islands and continue south to reach attractions like Tropic of Cancer Beach, Santanna's Bar and Grill, and the Hermitage ruins.
- Where can I get fuel on Great Exuma?
- Great Exuma has two gas stations: one near Exuma International Airport and another in Farmer's Hill. Both typically operate Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm, Sunday from 8am to noon, and holidays from 8 to 10am. Plan accordingly when renting a car.
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