Things to Do

Things to Do in Dunmore Town, Harbour Island

By Sail Abacos
Captain Ronald RolleReviewed by Captain Ronald Rolle

Dunmore Town is the only settlement on Harbour Island and one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the Bahamas, with roots stretching back to the 18th century. Named after Lord Dunmore, the British colonial governor who established his summer residence here, the town feels frozen in a more gracious era, where narrow lanes wind past candy-colored cottages, white picket fences frame tropical gardens, and luxury resorts hide behind unassuming facades.

Walking through Dunmore Town reveals layers of history at every turn. Loyalist architecture from the American Revolution, Anglican churches built by freed slaves, and a 17th-century battery defending the harbor tell stories of the island's past. Today, the town balances its heritage with sophisticated dining, boutique shopping, and a thriving art scene that draws visitors from around the world.

Bay Street Stroll

Landmark

The main thoroughfare of Dunmore Town runs along the western harbor, lined with restaurants, shops, and historic buildings. Morning brings fishermen returning with their catch, while evenings see locals and visitors gathering at waterfront bars. The Commissioner's Residence, built in 1913, anchors the street's historic architecture.

Tip: Stop by Arthur's Bakery in the morning for legendary cinnamon rolls.

St. John's Anglican Church

History

The oldest church in the Bahamas, St. John's was built in 1768 by descendants of the Eleutheran Adventurers. The distinctive pink and white exterior houses beautiful stained glass windows, and the bell tower was added in 1860. The churchyard contains historic graves, and visitors are welcome at Sunday services.

Tip: The church is open daily for quiet visits when services are not in session.

Loyalist Cottages

History

Throughout Dunmore Town, restored New England-style clapboard cottages date from the late 1700s when British Loyalists fled the American Revolution. The distinctive architecture features wide porches, louvered shutters, and pastel paint colors. Many homes remain private residences, while others have become boutique hotels and restaurants.

Tip: Wander the side streets like Dunmore and Colebrook for the best-preserved examples.

The Landing Restaurant

Dining

Set in a restored 1800s home, The Landing serves sophisticated Caribbean cuisine with fresh seafood as the star. The romantic waterfront setting, local artwork, and carefully crafted cocktails make it a destination in its own right. Reservations are essential during peak season.

Tip: Request a table on the veranda for harbor views at sunset.

Rock House Restaurant

Dining

This acclaimed restaurant occupies a historic building with harbor views and serves an elevated menu blending Bahamian ingredients with international techniques. The indoor-outdoor space features contemporary design within traditional architecture. The bar scene is as popular as the dining room.

Tip: Come early for drinks and stay for dinner.

Briland's Straw Market

Shopping

Local artisans sell handwoven baskets, hats, and bags made from native palm fronds at this open-air market near the government dock. The craftsmanship reflects traditions passed down through generations. Vendors also offer shell jewelry, local art, and Bahamian souvenirs.

Tip: Support local artisans by purchasing directly from the weavers.

17th-Century Battery

History

At the southern end of Bay Street, partially hidden by overgrowth, sits an English battery built in the 1600s to defend the harbor from pirates and foreign invaders. Several original cannons remain in position, pointing out to sea. The site offers views across the harbor toward Eleuthera.

Tip: Wear sturdy shoes as the path can be overgrown and uneven.

Ocean View Club

Dining

This beachfront restaurant at the Ocean View Club hotel serves fresh Bahamian seafood with Pink Sands Beach as the backdrop. Lunch on the terrace is quintessential Harbour Island, with fresh conch, grilled catch of the day, and rum cocktails. The Sunday brunch draws both guests and locals.

Tip: Non-guests are welcome but reservations are recommended, especially for weekend brunch.

Best time to visit

December through April offers the best weather with comfortable temperatures and low humidity. Dunmore Town maintains a year-round appeal, though some restaurants reduce hours or close briefly during September and October. The town is busiest during holiday weeks when reservations become essential.

Getting there

Dunmore Town is the only settlement on Harbour Island, accessible via water taxi from North Eleuthera after flying into North Eleuthera Airport. High-speed ferries from Nassau also serve the island. Within town, most visitors walk or rent golf carts. The entire town can be explored on foot in a few hours.

Neighborhoods and Street Life

Dunmore Town occupies the western side of Harbour Island, its narrow lanes running between Bay Street along the harbor and the residential blocks that climb gently toward the Atlantic shore. Bay Street serves as the commercial spine, lined with restaurants, shops, and historic buildings including the Commissioner's Residence built in 1913. Morning brings fishermen returning with their catch, while evenings see locals and visitors gathering at waterfront bars as the sun dips below Eleuthera.

Colebrook Street and Dunmore Street reward wandering with some of the best-preserved Loyalist cottages on the island. These New England-style clapboard homes date from the late 1700s when British refugees fled the American Revolution, and their distinctive architecture of wide porches, louvered shutters, and candy-colored paint has become synonymous with Harbour Island's aesthetic. Many remain private residences, their gardens bursting with bougainvillea behind white picket fences.

The southern end of town grows quieter, the lanes tapering toward the 17th-century battery with its cannons still pointed out to sea. The northern stretch near the ferry dock sees the most foot traffic, with golf carts jostling for position as day-trippers arrive from North Eleuthera. The entire settlement can be walked in under an hour, though the charm lies in lingering.

Getting Around Dunmore Town

Golf carts reign supreme on Harbour Island, and Dunmore Town's narrow lanes were never built for automobiles. Several rental operators cluster near the ferry dock, with Dunmore Rentals at the corner of Bay Street and Church Street being one of the longest-established. Their four-seater carts come standard or in lifted versions for those wanting a bit more ground clearance on sandy paths. Reservations are essential during winter and spring high season.

That said, Dunmore Town rewards those who leave the cart behind and explore on foot. The entire commercial district fits within a fifteen-minute walk, and the lanes reveal details that zip past at golf-cart speed: garden gates draped in jasmine, faded wooden signs from another era, and the occasional chicken crossing between properties. The path to Pink Sands Beach takes five minutes from anywhere in town, with several streets running directly east from Bay Street to the shore.

For visitors arriving by crewed catamaran, the anchorage off Dunmore Town provides easy dinghy access to the government dock. From there, everything worth seeing lies within walking distance. Captains familiar with these waters often recommend anchoring for multiple nights to fully absorb the town's unhurried rhythm.

Culture and Community

Dunmore Town maintains traditions that date back centuries, even as boutique hotels and acclaimed restaurants have arrived. St. John's Anglican Church, built in 1768 by descendants of the Eleutheran Adventurers, remains the spiritual center of the community. The distinctive pink and white exterior houses beautiful stained glass, and the churchyard contains graves from the early settlement period. Sunday services welcome visitors and offer a window into local life.

The Straw Market near the government dock keeps alive handicraft traditions passed down through generations. Local artisans weave baskets, hats, and bags from native palm fronds using techniques their grandmothers taught them. Purchasing directly from these weavers supports families and preserves skills that might otherwise fade.

Despite its reputation as a retreat for the wealthy, Dunmore Town has not lost its Bahamian character. Locals still gather at Ma Ruby's for home-cooked meals, children walk to the small schoolhouse, and fishermen sell their morning catch along the waterfront. The island's nickname, Briland, reflects the deep roots of families who have called this place home for centuries and continue to shape its identity even as visitors come and go.

Practical Tips for Visitors

Dunmore Town operates on island time, which means some businesses keep irregular hours, especially during the slower months of September and October when restaurants may reduce service or close briefly. Fine dining establishments like The Landing and Rock House command premium prices and require reservations during peak season. More casual spots like Queen Conch and local cafes offer affordable alternatives without sacrificing quality.

The Royal Bank of Canada branch in town has an ATM, and most businesses accept credit cards and U.S. dollars. Cell service is generally reliable, though WiFi speeds vary. Pharmacies and medical facilities are limited, so bring any essential medications. Sunscreen and insect repellent are particularly important given the time spent outdoors.

Pink Sands Beach lies just a five-minute walk east from anywhere in Dunmore Town. The calm, shallow waters are ideal for swimming, and the beach rarely feels crowded despite its fame. Visit at sunrise for the most vivid pink tones and the quietest sands. By mid-morning the color softens to a gentle blush, and at sunset the shore takes on an almost purple hue that photographers prize.

Read the full Dunmore Town, Harbour Island guide

Frequently asked questions

Are there ATMs in Dunmore Town?
There is a Royal Bank of Canada branch with an ATM in town. However, many businesses also accept credit cards and U.S. dollars.
Can I visit Pink Sands Beach from Dunmore Town?
Yes, the beach is just a five-minute walk east from anywhere in Dunmore Town. Several streets lead directly to the beach from Bay Street.
Do I need a golf cart in Dunmore Town?
The town is small enough to explore on foot. Golf carts are helpful for reaching restaurants or the beach multiple times daily, especially in hot weather.
Are restaurants expensive in Dunmore Town?
Fine dining establishments like The Landing and Rock House command premium prices. More casual options like Queen Conch and local cafes offer affordable alternatives.
What is the best street for seeing historic Loyalist cottages?
Dunmore Street and Colebrook Street feature some of the best-preserved examples of New England-style clapboard cottages dating from the late 1700s. Walking these quieter side streets reveals wide porches, louvered shutters, and pastel paint colors characteristic of Loyalist architecture.
Do restaurants in Dunmore Town require reservations?
Fine dining spots like The Landing and Rock House require reservations during peak season from December through April. Casual eateries like Queen Conch and local cafes welcome walk-ins, though arriving early ensures the freshest preparations.
Where can I buy handmade straw goods in Dunmore Town?
Briland's Straw Market near the government dock is where local artisans sell handwoven baskets, hats, and bags made from native palm fronds. The Dilly Dally at the main intersection also stocks straw goods along with jewelry crafted from pink conch shells.

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