Devil's Backbone

Historic Wrecks Worth Exploring

The Cienfuegos stands as the centerpiece of Devil's Backbone diving, her 300-foot iron hull resting in just 35 feet of water. This steam-powered passenger vessel, operating between New York City and the Caribbean, met her fate in 1895 when she ran aground on the coral heads. Local Eleutheran villagers rescued every passenger and crew member without a single fatality, a testament to the island community's maritime skill. Today, divers can explore her intact bow, engine room, and boilers, all encrusted with vibrant corals.

Nearby lies the Vanaheim, an 85-foot freighter that sank in 1969 while carrying potatoes and onions, earning her the affectionate nickname "The Potato and Onion Wreck." Her rudder rests just five feet from the Cienfuegos, allowing divers to explore both vessels in a single dive. The Carnarvon, a 185-foot Welsh steel freighter that grounded in 1916, offers excellent photo opportunities with her well-preserved steam engine and boiler visible in 25 feet of water.

The Train Wreck and Civil War History

Perhaps the most unusual wreck on Devil's Backbone dates to 1865, when a barge carrying a steam locomotive destined for the war effort ran aground on the reef. The scattered remains of this Confederate-era disaster now rest in just 15 feet of water, with train wheels, trucks, and boiler plates creating an otherworldly scene on the seabed.

The wooden barge structure has largely disintegrated over 160 years, but the iron components of the locomotive remain recognizable, now serving as habitat for schools of snapper and colonies of nudibranchs. This shallow depth and historical significance make the Train Wreck an excellent first dive of the day and a favorite among underwater photographers seeking unique subject matter.

Marine Life and Dive Conditions

Devil's Backbone's wrecks have transformed into thriving artificial reefs supporting diverse ecosystems. Angelfish and parrotfish patrol the coral-encrusted hulls while spotted trunkfish dart between structural elements. Queen conch graze on the sandy patches between wrecks, and the sharp-eyed diver may spot octopus sheltering in the machinery.

Dive conditions remain favorable throughout most of the year, with November through May offering optimal visibility of 80 to 100 feet. Water temperatures stay comfortable year-round, typically ranging from 75 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit. The shallow depths mean extended bottom times and minimal current exposure, making Devil's Backbone accessible to newly certified divers while still engaging experienced wreck enthusiasts.

Getting there

Devil's Backbone lies off the northern tip of Eleuthera, accessible by boat from Harbour Island or Spanish Wells. Most divers fly into North Eleuthera Airport and take a water taxi to Harbour Island, where local dive operators offer regular trips to the reef. The boat ride takes approximately 15 to 20 minutes from Harbour Island's main dock. Dive operators in Spanish Wells also service the site with similar transit times.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need wreck diving certification to dive Devil's Backbone?

No special certification is required. The wrecks are shallow and open, allowing exploration without penetration. Open Water certification is sufficient for most dives, though an orientation with a local guide is recommended to maximize your experience.

Can I snorkel the wrecks at Devil's Backbone?

Yes, several wrecks including the Train Wreck and portions of the Cienfuegos are shallow enough for snorkeling in calm conditions. Local operators offer combined snorkel and dive trips to accommodate mixed groups.

When is the best time to dive Devil's Backbone?

November through May offers the best visibility and calmest conditions. The dry season provides visibility exceeding 80 feet and comfortable surface intervals between dives.