Devil's Backbone Reef
A notorious ship-wrecking reef where more vessels have foundered than anywhere else in the Bahamas, now a wreck diver's paradise.
Devil's Backbone is a shallow rocky reef running along Eleuthera's northern coast that has claimed more ships than any other reef in the Bahamas. For centuries, vessels struck this treacherous formation in storms and poor visibility, creating an underwater museum of maritime history. Today it offers the most wreck-rich diving in the islands.
The reef earned its ominous name from sailors who knew its reputation. Depths range from just 5 to 35 feet, putting multiple historic wrecks within easy recreational diving limits. The shallow, protected waters also make this one of the finest snorkeling destinations in the Bahamas.
The wrecks of Devil's Backbone
The Cienfuegos, a 292-foot American passenger steamship that sank in 1895, is the largest wreck on the reef. Local villagers rescued all passengers and crew, but the iron hull now lies scattered across the sandy bottom in 10 to 35 feet of water. Her bow, steam engine, and boiler remain identifiable landmarks.
The Train Wreck dates to 1865, when a barge carrying a steam locomotive and rail cars to Cuba foundered in a storm. Wheels, wheel trucks, boiler plates, and wooden beams lie in just 10 to 15 feet of water. Multiple other wrecks including the Carnarvon and Vanaheim add to the density of submerged history.
Marine life on the reef
The wrecks have become artificial reefs supporting abundant marine life. Spotted trunkfish, snapper, and angelfish inhabit the structures, while parrotfish graze on coral-encrusted metalwork. Anemones, conch, nudibranchs, shrimp, and crabs populate the nooks and crannies of the wreckage.
The shallow depths and excellent visibility, often 80 to 100 feet during the dry season from November to May, create ideal conditions for underwater photography. Snorkelers can observe much of the marine life and wreck features from the surface.
Planning your dive
Devil's Backbone is accessed from Harbour Island, Spanish Wells, or North Eleuthera. Local operators run regular trips to multiple wreck sites along the reef. The shallow depths make this suitable for all certification levels, including newly certified divers.
Most operators offer multi-site dives that visit several wrecks in a single excursion. The Train Wreck and Cienfuegos are popular highlights, but the entire reef system offers exploration opportunities. Calm conditions are typical in the protected waters behind the reef.
Getting there
Devil's Backbone is reached from Harbour Island, Spanish Wells, or North Eleuthera. Dive operators including Valentine's Dive Center and Ocean Fox run regular trips to the reef. The protected location behind the reef allows diving in most conditions. Water taxi service connects Harbour Island to North Eleuthera for those staying on the main island.
Frequently asked questions
- How many wrecks are at Devil's Backbone?
- Dozens of vessels have wrecked on Devil's Backbone over centuries. The most accessible include the Cienfuegos (1895), Train Wreck (1865), Carnarvon (1916), and Vanaheim (1969). Some wrecks are stacked on top of each other.
- Is Devil's Backbone good for snorkeling?
- Yes, the shallow depths of 5-35 feet make this excellent for snorkeling. Much of the Train Wreck lies in just 10-15 feet, allowing snorkelers to observe the locomotive remains and marine life from the surface.
- When is the best time to dive Devil's Backbone?
- November through May offers the best visibility, often reaching 80-100 feet. The dry season brings calmer conditions and clearer water. Summer diving is possible but visibility may be reduced.
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